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 会馆民俗: 龙井问茶

tangguozhuang 写道 "



 龙井问茶

作者:汤国状

    来到杭州,我们游玩了九溪十八涧之后,再徒步向前,往杨梅岭方向走去,一路上,曲径幽幽,溪水欢唱,林荫浓郁,高大的水杉,直插云霄,清爽的空气,沁入心脾。路边有很多茶树,一垄垄低矮的茶树,呈圆形,象一条条绿带,整齐地排列的山坡上,非常美观。奇怪的是,竟然没有人采,我正纳闷着,正好一个农民模样的人走来,我便向前和他打招呼。谈话中,我得知,春茶已经采完,现在端午了,属于夏茶了,要是过去也是要采的,主要是用来做成珠茶,因为夏茶的茶叶比较老了,所以茶味也较浓,但是夏茶价格却不高,一般茶农就把这种茶留给自己喝,现在,由于人的工资太高,采了也不合算,所以干脆放弃不采了。
    一路谈来,不知不觉已经到了杨梅岭村,他说:他家到了,他住的这个村,就是西湖绿茶的主要产区之一,他邀请我们到他家喝茶,而且很明确地告诉我们,不是白喝的,要五元钱一杯,当然,如果向他买茶叶,这茶就不用付钱了。我很高兴地到了他家,他请我们坐在他家门前的一棵老桂花树下,椐他说,这是棵桂花树有两百多年的树龄了,是他爷爷的爸爸栽下的。我看看桂树,树皮斑驳,枝干弯曲,真象是百年老树了。他边说边进屋抱同一袋装茶叶的袋子,层层包装,他说是放在石灰窑里拿出来的。(石灰是防潮的,因为茶叶最怕潮)他先让我闻了他的茶叶,真的好香。一股非比寻常的浓香!然后,拿出清洁的玻璃杯子,放上茶叶,慢慢的注入开水,这开水不能是百沸滚汤,以摄氏九十度最为适宜。水入杯后,便漂出一股清淡的幽香,在露天里也四溢开来,几步内都可以闻到,他又向我们仔细地介绍起龙井茶的特点,他说,这龙井茶,第一特点是特别的清香。第二是茶叶在水中是呈倒浮状的,就是叶芽向下,叶梗向上,看上去很象一枝倒开的小花。煞是好看。第三,龙井茶过夜不馊。第四、放一次茶叶,最多可以冲六到七次水,还有很浓的味。他还告诉我,正宗的龙井茶,只在翁家山、龙井村(包括狮子岭)、满觉垅、杨梅岭,叫做翁、龙、满、杨四山龙井,这是最正宗的上品茶,除此之外,次之的就是西湖龙井,包括整个西湖区范围内所有的茶叶,比如:梅家坞,灵隐村,云栖等,都在此例。再有就是浙江龙井了,这个范围就大了,他的主要产区是富阳、萧山、桐庐、绍兴,甚至包括了我们温州的某些地方。这种茶其实是冒了龙井的名了。

    他还告诉我,正宗的四山龙井茶由于采茶的时间不同,分为四种。第一种叫做“莲心茶”,是在清明前三天采的,只采茶芽,不带茶叶的,据说每斤干茶叶必须上36000个茶芽才称得上真正的莲心茶。这是过去进贡皇宫的茶,一般不上市,就是上市了,恐怕也很少人买得起。第二种叫“旗枪”,这种茶是谷雨前采的,一叶一芽,芽呈尖尖状,象枪尖,叶子嫩黄,稍大片,张开状,如旗,所以叫旗枪,第三种叫雀舌,大至在立夏前采的,两片未张开的叶子夹着当中的一颗小茶芽,犹如小麻雀长开小嘴,露出舌头的样子,所以叫雀舌,第四种叫梗片,那就是立夏之后采的,带小梗,叶片也大了,是西湖龙井茶中最差的一等茶,但是,比起外地茶叶,要好的多的。

    听讲了这么一大堆,我也真学到了不少学问,我向他请教姓名,他说他姓应,叫应阿四。多么朴实的一个名字啊,名字和他的性格全完融合在一起了,我很敬重他,也很佩服他。问了他的一些家常,他说他的房子是政府补贴建的,一百五十平方,他自己出五万,政府出十万,十年前建的,他有一个儿子,在杭州工作,杭州也有房子,老伴是个下乡知青,还是个大财主家出身的,嫁给他这个农民,真是亏了她了。他还给我们留了电话,请我们下次一定要去他家玩,他说他喜欢喝一杯的,让我们下次一起同醉,呵呵。

    临别了,我向老人买了二百元的茶叶。他说卖别人是八百元一斤,给我只收五百,我信了。想不到,这一次游九溪,交了这样一个善良朴实的朋友。还学到了这么多有关茶的知识,收获颇丰啊。

    此时,快近黄昏了,我们辞别了应阿四,在夕阳的余辉下,慢慢往回走。

    再见了,杨梅岭,再见了,应阿四。

                     二○一一年端午后一天。写于龙港。

   

"


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贴出者为 tjc800    贴出时间为 2014-05-30 22:10:00
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Re: 龙井问茶 (分数: 1)
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