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 会馆旅游: 崂山片羽



崂山片羽
作者:曾新


   还是在念中学的时候,地理老师就给我们讲:崂山东临崂山湾,南滨黄海,主峰崂顶高盈千米。崂山气势磅礴,景色秀丽,山海林泉,兼收并蓄,自古以来就被誉为“神仙之宅,灵异之府。”后来《崂山道士》剧更勾起我游崂山的企盼。今天,终于有机会将企盼变作现实了,我真的能亲睹其丰姿神韵,亲感其灵气仙态了!
我们乘坐的汽车,从青岛火车站广场出发,往东沿黄海之滨蜿蜒奔驰30公里即到了名闻遐迩的崂山。我曾几度踽文攀登在峰翠崖危的以“秀美”著称于天下的“峨嵋山”;我曾几度凝思神想于“尽东倾”的以“幽美”闻名于世的“青城山”。如今,面对更有自己非凡之美的崂山,我一时不知该用什么样的词语来表述她了。我站在海滨望去,只见她一身赤裸裸的岩石(崂山属花岗岩体),白中杂有黛点,光亮如琅珏,洁净似肌肤,好象刚刚在大海里畅浴之后,站起身来悠然兀立于海滨的少女。山岩裸露,几乎没有长草的地方,唯石缝里生长出少许苍翠欲滴的松树,似她着上的浴装比基尼,海风起处,时掩时映,有一种朦胧感,有一种羞涩感,有一种神秘感,既象现代人体摄影,又若古典风景油画……。“裸美”我突然想起这个词语来。同行的老张见我神思耽沉,怕我挂一漏万,遂提醒我应该尝尝崂山的风味小吃“海凉粉”。一著白裙裾的白胖胖的女郎热情地招呼我们落座在矮矮的条木凳上之后,随即手脚麻利地给我们一人来了一碗。这海凉粉“绵扎”如四川的凉粉,透明如四川的冰粉,是用海石花加工制成,放以芥末、胡罗卜丝、酱油、味素等作料,其味儿能令你觉得是在品着大海。
我们从南路往山上爬,过太清宫门口时,老张说:“崂山是道教圣地,说是这太清宫仅次于青城山的天师洞,号称天下‘第二宫’,很值得一看。”“对,一定得看。但我们先上山顶回来再进去。”我的心情如入宝山,先粗略流览,最佳去处留在后头好慢慢“嚼味”。我们没有走人造的石级,而是从没有路地方往上爬行,不多久即腿肚子发酸,周身汗渗渗的了。我有好几次都想止步,但见老张在一个劲儿地爬,我也就不好打退堂鼓了。终于一鼓作气达到了南路极处——号称“地瑶”之峰巅。这时,我虽气喘吁吁,但有一股快感湝湝流于全身。我们伫立于山顶的一块巨大的亮光光的岩石上眺东望西——海水湛蓝、秋阳璀璨、上下天光,一碧万顷。远望海天一色处泱泱圆弧拱卫着崂山,拱卫着我们,我顿时觉着自己确乎成了这若大海洋的中心了!即想:如若在半山腰却步了,能见此美景,体验此快慰么?蓦地,我记起了蒲松龄的一副对联:“有志者,事竞成,破釜沉舟,百二秦兵终属楚;苦心人,天不负,卧薪尝胆,三千越甲可吞吴。”蒲公之心胸气质能不令吾斯人钦佩乎?想起蒲联,即想起了蒲松龄产生于太清宫的文章,我们遂急急乎下山了。
太清宫是崂山最古老、规模最大的道观,它的围墙房壁均用崂山石砌成,虽不如青城山的殿宇高大闶阆,可也秀气玲珑,混浪熠熠。全宫由三个院落组成,西面是三皇殿,中部为三清殿,东面是三宫殿。宫内银杏参天,山茶含蕾(据说此茶花是全国四大茶花之一),桂芳正浓。三宫殿前有两株巨大的耐冬树,蒲松龄《聊斋志异》中的《香玉》篇写的即是此树的故事。从《香玉》那美丽动人的故事中,也能一窥蒲公“写人写妖高人一等,刺官刺虐入骨三分”的才气和“孤愤”之情。崂山亦为蒲凇龄“呕心端为更当时”充沛了一个默契的配角!因了,我感悟到:崂山不但具备“裸露”之美,更具备“真涵”之美。《诗经》云:“山川悠远,惟其劳矣。”崂山即劳山,古代“劳”、“辽”二字通假;故劳山即广阔之山的意思。崂山还有中路、东路可游,每路都有不少古迹和景观,怎奈时不待我,只得抱憾而去——惟能以慰的是我们必尽拾掇到了崂山最精美最珍贵之片羽。


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贴出者为 Anonymous    贴出时间为 2007-08-02 05:00:57
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