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翟可先故居
作者:翟光逵

      翟可先故居位于泾县桃花潭镇龙潭村常官巷,它是自明中期至清晚期逐渐形成的一组封建大家庭古民居群。它由4幢5间、2幢3间2厢、2幢3间无厢均为坐北朝南的正屋和2幢3间坐东朝西的横屋,外加10多间脚屋以及正屋前的坦与多处菜园(或花园)组成。其中正屋都是堂心居中,左右为卧室;横屋为正规厨房或书斋或作坊;脚屋都是碓、磨、烘茶、缫丝、贮藏等杂房;坦就是门前广场,平时作晒场,节日作娱乐出龙灯用场。故居占地约2400平米。


 翟可先故居平面图
      故居正屋与横屋都是2层,脚屋为单层。整个建筑群随地形高低分为三个不同的标高:东南角一组朝向略偏东10度左右,地坪最高,中间3进主体建筑地坪次高,西北角一组地坪最低。
建筑都是木梁架承重,大空斗墙围护。外观粉墙黛瓦,人字形硬山顶(仅西北角一组和正中最南3间的正屋为清代建的有马头墙)。屋内都是南北窄、东西长的条形三合院天井,堂心与左右卧室之间在天井处都用砖墙分隔,开有横门相通,横门头的外侧有一对帘勾悬挂垂帘,这不仅便于妯娌分居,更是区分内外有别的重要措施,这种处理手法与徽州民居很不相同。
      天井是卵石铺地,堂心与房前檐廊为地面砖或三合土,房间内是木地板。凡是砖墙上的门都是石头门框,并且内侧石门框两侧的墙上都有凹槽,门开启后正好嵌入槽内,使门扇与墙面既平整美观、又不受雨淋。抗战时期日军夜间用剌刀撬门闩,所以故居内所有门闩都加了活动的钉梢,至今仍留有痕迹。
      中间3进主体建筑,最前靠井塘的一进,大门前两侧有一对旗杆夹石。梁架上还存有挂匾用的桃形铁钩和挂灯笼用的凤形铁钩。第二进正中5间的正屋明代建筑特征十分显著:梭柱月梁、复盆础加柱质、挑檐柃放在丁头拱加搭牵上、梁架和坐斗用的都是深雕、骨棑式木板壁、直棂门窗、用直立的青石板紧靠外墙内侧以防盗等等。另外其堂心高悬《殖学传经》和《道光照人》2块古匾,文革时被红卫兵砸抢后丢失。
      东南角一组建筑最特别的是它正屋大门头上有砖雕《本仁堂》嵌方,进门后左右的横门是一对圆形门洞。而其横屋两边山墙的后侧则开有一对花瓶门。有点像书斋家塾的格局。西北角一组建筑的大门为避免正对巷道而不居中,其马头墙的翘角上还安装有避雷针,檐口下有彩画,它二层是5间连在一起的跑马楼,即底层堂心只有一层高,尺度比较亲切(泾县明代建筑堂心都是2层高);这些都是晚清建筑的特征。西北角一组的屋后是嵌有《培芝轩》砖雕门额的菜园。
翟可先故居位于泾县桃花潭镇龙潭村常官巷,在桃花潭东岸居住密集核心区内,前后左右都是明清时期的大宅院,其周边有司马第、将军府、鞑子楼、中份祠、前份祠、六孙公祠等等众多古民居和古祠堂。故居南侧有巷道通往司马第、冬青树及上街头,西侧有前巷可下河,中间巷可去下街头、踏歌岸阁及横街,后巷通犁头尖老街及关王殿和文昌阁。另外故居前原有一方井塘(即水塘靠南边院墙处有一口水井),既利于排水和防火,又利于取水和洗涤。过去这些大宅院内都植有很多的桂花、枣树、柑橘、枇杷、花红、香椿和桑树等,天井内都有花台和盆景,院墙头上爬满了凉瓜果和万字花,使巷内、院内处处有阴凉,时时飘果香,居住其间令人十分惬意。
      该故居正中5间一路的堂心内过去梁架上有《殖学传经》和《道光照人》2块古匾,文革时被红卫兵砸抢后丢失。据砸匾时上辈老人说:该屋自建成至今已有500多年了,按此计算该屋应该建于明代中期万历或万历稍前。翟可先为此宅后人, 据嘉庆《泾县志》记载“翟可先:字圣从,康熙庚子岁贡生。敦品力学,淹通经籍。万应隆引为畏友。年臻耄耋,披寻不辍。学者多宗之。”是当地有名的经学家,曾为乡祭酒数十年。《贩书偶记校证》总目记载其撰有《周易晰奥十卷》,《桃花潭文徵》(翟大程编印、清光绪三十年(1904)重印)中录有其诗文多首。故居到晚清嘉庆时为其后代翟明璐居住,他携4子经商,故居正中最前面的3间正屋以前就是经营茶叶杂货的店屋,除在本村经商外,还在湾址、芜湖开店。随着岁月他又增添了10多个孙辈男丁与10多个孙女。致富后由于人口增多,原居住的主体部分不够住,就买下了紧挨其东南角处的《本仁堂》部分,后又在西北角处新建了5间一路的跑马楼与碓屋等脚屋。因此形成了这处明清时期的封建家族大宅院。该故居到了晚清和民国时期,不仅是居住用,同时兼做私塾、店屋、作坊与养蚕用。解放后在上世纪50~60年代为了建陈村水库,将整个上半村的村民全部迁出让给水电部12和14两局的干部和工人居住,此时故居内挤满了从上半村搬迁过来的居民,而原户主也有一半因为出身不好,为了避免破坏水库建设,被强行迁往偏远的众和与南冲山村,那时故居多处被分隔改造。
 
翟可先故居
      故居正中主体部分后进的东侧在民国初年被人纵火烧毁,其西侧由于无人居住、年久失修,于文革后倒塌。主体部分中进现无人居住、年久失修,木地板损坏严重,梁架局部脱榫,但时有检修,保持不漏不倒状态。文革期间天井花台1米×2米多的青石板台面被红卫兵砸碎成数块。《本仁堂》部分于1993年卖给了山里人,后又转手卖给了南京人,现无人居住,杂草丛生。主体部分前进3间店屋,文革后卖给外地人,将梁架全部拆走,2000年后有人又在原地复建,并将前面的井塘围成了自家的内院。
      该故居1984年被列为县级文保单位,2012年县文化局又将其申报为省级文保单位(待批)。
      它的价值体现在以下三方面:
      1、文化价值:它是明清时期封建家族大宅院逐渐形成的活标本。它体现了封建礼教逐渐从威严趋向亲和的转变过程。它也反映了封建社会居中为尊、内外有别、男女有别的纲常伦理。它还是明清、民国、抗战、解放、文革和开放后各个历史时代不同信息的活载体。
      2、科学价值:它体现了我国古代建筑“墙倒屋不塌”的典型特征。它反映了古代建筑就地取材和按不同空间使用不同材质的科学性。它的布局因地制宜,充分利用不同标高的地形和因地形限制而形成的拐角空间。其梭柱月梁和柱质等构造都十分符合受力、隔潮、更新等要求。它天井的大小正好符合冬暖夏凉的要求。它堂心与左右卧室之间在天井处都用砖墙分隔,开有横门相通,既便于联系,又便于妯娌分居,比徽州民居堂心与卧室共用一个天井更科学。其横屋坡顶不阻挡正屋天井内的阳光和视线,改成三坡顶,其设计想得真周到。
      3、艺术价值:梭柱、月梁、复盆础、丁头拱、坐斗、栏杆等等,这些都是必不可少的承重与实用构件,稍事雕刻后它们同时又变成了一个个非常漂亮的艺术构件。这种不是纯粹为了装饰而装饰的做法,最值得我们现在人学习。











《本仁堂》砖雕额方                    大门背后的凹槽

骨棑式板壁                          梭柱、木地板、地面砖、青石板











月梁雕刻                             柱础与柱质(应是“木+质”)


(作者:安徽建筑学院古建系教授)
20131


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贴出者为 Anonymous    贴出时间为 2013-01-30 14:42:07
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Re: 翟可先故居 (分数: 1)
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